Travel England Exploring Around Oxford About Blenheim Palace
Nowadays, successful British commanders get medals
and titles, but in 1704, as a thank-you for his victory over the French
at the battle of Blenheim, Queen Anne gave John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough (1650-1722) the royal estate of Woodstock, along with the promise of enough cash to build himself a gargantuan palace.
Work started promptly on Blenheim Palace
(mid-March to Oct daily 10.30am-5.30pm; £9.50) with the principal
architect being Sir John Vanbrugh. The end result is the country's
grandest example of Baroque civic architecture, an Italianate palace
that is more a monument than a house. The interior is stuffed with paintings and tapestries, plus all manner of
objets d'art
, including furniture from Versailles, and stone and marble carvings by
Grinling Gibbons. The ceiling of the Great Hall sports painted
allegories celebrating Marlborough's martial skills and the Dining
Saloon holds murals by Louis Laguerre, but frankly it's hard to warm to
all this conspicuous consumption. Neither is the guided tour conducive
to much idle rumination, with guides whisking visitors through the
palace in about an hour. As for the Marlboroughs, John Churchill was
one of the few members of the clan to have made anything but a poor
impression, the spectacular exception being Sir Winston Churchill
, born here in 1874. Several rooms are dedicated to the wartime prime
minister, who is buried with his wife in the graveyard of Bladon Church , visible from the palace.
Formal gardens (mid-March to Oct daily 10.30am-5.30pm; entry covered by ticket to palace) flank the house, but the open parkland
(daily 9am-4.45pm; £2, £6 for cars, including passengers) is more
enticing, especially just north of the house, where the ground falls
away dramatically to an exquisite artificial lake, Queen Pool. It's
said that Capability Brown, who landscaped the grounds, laid out the
trees and avenues to represent the battle of Blenheim. Whatever the
truth of the tale, fine vistas fan out in every direction, including
one from Vanbrugh's Grand Bridge, over the main lake, up to the Column
of Victory, erected by Sarah Jennings and topped by a statue of her
husband posing heroically in a toga.
There
are two entrances to Blenheim, one just south of Woodstock on the
Oxford road and another through the Triumphal Arch at the end of Park
Street in Woodstock itself.
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