Twenty-three kilometres east of St-Omer is the tiny hilltop town of CASSEL . Hills are rare in Flanders, and consequently Cassel was much fought over from Roman times onwards. Marshal Foch spent "some of the most distressing hours" of his life here during World War I, and it was up to the top of Cassel's hill that the "Grand Old Duke of York" marched his 10,000 men in 1793, though, as hinted in the nursery rhyme, he failed to take the town.

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Cassel's train station, 3km west of town, is linked only to Dunkerque, so you really need your own transport to make the trip worthwhile. Once there, however, your efforts will be rewarded with the very Flemish Grande-Place , lined with some magnificent mansions, from which narrow cobbled streets fan out. From the public gardens you have an unrivalled view over Flanders, with Belgium just 10km away. Here among the trees is Cassel's only remaining wooden windmill - there used to be 29 pounding their oil mills day and night - which revolves on its axis every Sunday.

There are two good places to eat on the central Grande-Place: La Taverne Flamande (closed Tues evening & Wed; from €13.57), specializing in Flemish cuisine; and the simpler À l'Hôtel de Ville , with a filling, tasty menu at €10.67.

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