With over fifty restaurants within its walls, the Cité is a good place to look for somewhere to eat, though it tends to be on the expensive side. First choice is the Auberge de Dame Carcas , 3 place du Château (tel 04.68.71.23.23; closed Sun evening, Mon lunch & Feb; menu at €12.96), a traditional bistro, offering cassoulet and other regional dishes. Otherwise try the Jardin de la Tour , 11 rue Porte d'Aude (closed Sun evening, Mon & Nov), with outside tables, or the smart Brasserie du Donjon , in the hotel of the same name ; both serve terroir menus from €12.20. There's a much greater variety of affordable places in the ville basse : among these Le Petit Couvert , at 18 rue de l'Aigle d'Or, has good cheap menus (closed Sun, Mon & March; from €9.91) and a small street-side terrace, while La Bérbére , 2 rue Denisse, is a friendly Moroccan restaurant and salon du thé (closed Sun & Mon; €8.39 menu). Nearby, at 29 bd Jean-Jaurès, the pine Comédie serves a varied menu of pasta, pizzas and regional dishes in generous portions (closed Sun; from €12.20). For something more sophisticated, try Chez Fred , beside Jardin Chénier at 31 bd Omer Sarraut (menus from €14.95). For picnic provisions, head for the market on place Carnot (Tues, Thurs & Sat mornings).

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Carcassonne hosts two major festivals: the month-long Festival de la Cité in July, with dance, theatre and music, whose highpoint is the mammoth fireworks display on Bastille Day (July 14); and the elaborate medieval pageant, Les Médiévales , held in the first fortnight of August.

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