Numerous pizza vans are scattered about town, evidence of a strong Italian influence that's also apparent in the predominance of pizzerias and pasta places in the Nouveau Port area. The town also boasts some excellent inexpensive restaurants serving Corsican specialities: the posh places on the quai des Martyrs do the best aziminu , a Corsican version of bouillabaisse . Most of the good restaurants are to be found around the Vieux Port and on the quai des Martyrs, with a sprinkling in the citadel. Drinking is serious business in Bastia, with the Casanis pastis factory on the outskirts of town in Lupino making the town's favourite drink. There are many bars and cafés all over town, varying from the stark and brightly lit bars of Terra Vecchia, which are the haunt of old men, to the elegant, dimly lit cafés on place St-Nicolas, which entertain a younger, more lively clientele. For a more sedate atmosphere, boulevard Paoli and rue Campinchi are lined with chi-chi salons de thé offering elaborate creamy confections, local chestnut cake and doughnuts.
Bar de la Citadelle , in front of the Palais des Gouverneurs. Basically a sandwich and ice-cream bar that would have little to recommend it were it not for its superb location overlooking the Vieux Port.
Café des Palmiers , place St-Nicolas. One of the few cafés along this stretch, with comfy wicker chairs that catch the sun at breakfast time and attentive service. Makes delicious fresh pastries.
Le Pub Assunta , 5 place Fontaine-Neuve. Large, lively bar with a good selection of draught beers, a snooker table on its mezzanine floor and a terrace opening onto the old quarter. Serves fast food indoors or on the shady terrace outside, and puts on live music nights with local bands on Thursdays.
Restaurants
A Casarella , 6 rue Ste-Croix (tel 04.95.32.02.32). Innovative Corsican-French cuisine served on a terrace on the edge of the citadel. House specialities include casgiate (nuggets of fresh cheese baked in fragrant chestnut leaves) and the rarely prepared storzzappretti - balls of brocciu , spinach and herbs in tomato sauce. À la carte only; count on around €22.80 per head. Closed Sat & Sun lunchtimes.
Chez Jo La Braise , 7 bd Hyacinte-de-Montrea (tel 04.95.31.36.97). Authentic Corsican pizzeria, whose succulent meat dishes and pizzas, cooked over wood grills with maquis herbs, have made its owner (a Choowawa-Indian Russian retired boxer) something of a local celebrity. The tarte aux herbes is a must for vegetarians, and Jo is deservedly proud of his banana flambé . Bank on around €15.20 for the full works. Closed Sun & Aug.
Le Citadelle , 6 rue du Dragon, Citadelle (tel 04.95.31.44.70). Gorgeous gourmet restaurant at the heart of Terra Nova, serving classy French cuisine inside a vaulted cellar with mellow lighting. Prices are high (€27.36 menu fixe , or around €33.44 à la carte without wine), but this is simply one of the finest places to eat on the island. Try one of their to-die-for desserts (the mille-feuille aux fruits rouges is sublime).
Le Zagora , Vieux Port. An attractively decorated Moroccan restaurant with great views over the harbour. Try their delicious veal with plums and almonds, washed down with mint tea. Around €22.80 per head.
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