Tourism has taken its toll here, hence the abundance of mediocre eating places crammed into the narrow alleys of the old town. A few restaurants do stand out, however, some offering classic gourmet menus and others serving superb fresh seafood. The best cafés are found in place Paoli along the southern side.
La Jonque , rue Paoli. One of only a handful of Chinese/Vietnamese restaurants on the island. Drab, formulaic decor, but the food is fresh and spicy, and they do a good-value set menu (€14.44).
L'Ostéria , place Santelli. Tucked away on a quiet square in the old quarter, this is the town's best Corsican speciality restaurant, serving a good-value set menu (€17.78) that includes delicious beignets de courgettes , in a vaulted room adorned with farm implements. Closed Wed.
La Taverne Espgnole (Chez Paco ), rue Paoli. Copious portions of tasty Spanish food (including paella; €25.84 for two) and spicy fish dishes (including bouillabaisse ; €13.68) served under awnings in a quiet old town back street. Aperitifs and digestifs often on the house.
Le Grillon , av Paul-Doumer (tel 04.95.60.00.09). High-ceilinged, blissfully cool air-conditioned hotel dining hall south of the centre with a limited, but consistently good menu of mainly French dishes. Their steak au roquefort and cod in spicy creole sauce are perennially popular, while for vegetarians there's a delicious courgette and basil pâté. Count on €16.72-22.80 per head.
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