The dark narrow streets backing onto the port to the north of place Foch are Ajaccio's traditional trading ground. Each weekday and Saturday morning (and on Sundays during the summer), the square directly behind the Hôtel de Ville hosts a small farmers' market - a rarity in Corsica - where you can browse and buy top-quality fresh produce from around the island, including myrtle liqueur, wild-boar sauces, ewe's cheese from the Niolo valley and a spread of fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers.
Behind here, the principal road leading north is rue Cardinal-Fesch, a delightful meandering street lined with boutiques, cafés and restaurants. Halfway along the street, set back from the road behind iron gates, stands Ajaccio's best gallery, the Musée Fesch (April-June & Sept Mon 1-5.15pm, Tues-Sun 9.15am-12.15pm & 2.15-5.15pm; July-Sept Mon 1.30-6pm, Tues-Thurs 9am-6.30pm, Fri & Sat 10.30am-5.15pm, Sun 10.30am-6pm; Oct-March Tues-Sat 9.15am-12.15pm & 2.15-5.15pm; €5.32). Cardinal Joseph Fesch was Napoléon's step-uncle and bishop of Lyon, and he used his lucrative position to invest in large numbers of paintings, many of them looted by the French armies in Holland, Italy and Germany. His bequest to the town includes seventeenth-century French and Spanish masters, but it's the Italian paintings that are the chief attraction: Raphael, Titian, Bellini, Veronese and Botticelli all have a place here.
You'll need a separate ticket for the Chapelle Impériale (same hours; €1.52), which stands across the courtyard from the museum. With its gloomy monochrome interior the chapel itself is unremarkable, and its interest lies in the crypt, where various members of the Bonaparte family are buried. It was the cardinal's dying wish that all the Bonaparte family be brought together under one roof, so the chapel was built in 1857 and the bodies subsequently ferried in.
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