Capital of the north, Bastia was the principal Genoese stronghold, and its fifteenth-century old town has survived almost intact. Of the island's two large towns, this is the more purely Corsican, and commerce rather than tourism is its main concern. Also relatively undisturbed, the northern Cap Corse harbours inviting sandy coves and fishing villages such as Erbalunga and Centuri-Port, and the fertile region of the Nebbio contains a plethora of churches built by Pisan stoneworkers, the prime example being the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta at the appealingly chic little port of
St-Florent.
To the west of here, L'Île-Rousse and Calvi , the latter graced with an impressive citadel and fabulous sandy beach, are major targets for holiday-makers. The spectacular Scandola nature reserve can be visited by boat from the tiny resort of Porto , from where walkers can also strike into the wild Gorges de la Spelunca and Fôret d'Aïtone . Corte , at the heart of Corsica, is the best base for exploring the stupendous mountains and gorges of the interior which form part of the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse , which runs almost the entire length of the island.
Sandy beaches and rocky coves punctuate the west coast all the way down to Ajaccio , Napoléon's birthplace and the island's capital. Its pavement cafés and palm-lined boulevards are thronged with tourists in summer. Slightly fewer make it to nearby Filitosa , greatest of the many prehistoric sites scattered across the south. Brash Propriano , the spot that has perhaps been transformed most by the tourist boom, lies close to stern Sartène , seat of the wild feudal lords who once ruled this region and still the quintessential Corsican town.
More megalithic sites are to be found south of Sartène on the way to Bonifacio , a comb of ancient buildings perched atop furrowed white cliffs at the southern tip of the island. Equally popular Porto-Vecchio provides a springboard for excursions to the amazing beaches of the south. The eastern plain has less to boast of, but the Roman site at Aléria is worth a visit for its excellent museum.
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