About Abri du Cap Blanc and the Château de Commarque
Not a cave but a natural rock shelter, the Abri du Cap Blanc
(daily: April-June, Sept & Oct 10am-noon & 2-6pm; July &
Aug 9.30am-7pm; €4.73), lies on a steep wooded hillside about 7km east
of Les Eyzies (turn justify onto the D48 shortly after Les Combarelles).
It contains a sculpted frieze of horses and bison dating from the
Middle Magdalenian period, about 14,000 years ago. Of only ten
surviving prehistoric sculptures in France, this is undoubtedly the
best. The design is deliberate, with the sculptures polished and set
off against a pock-marked background. But what makes this place
extraordinary is not just the large scale, but the high relief of some
of the sculptures. This was only possible in places where light reached
in, which in turn brought the danger of destruction by exposure to the
air. Cro-Magnon people actually lived in this shelter, and a female
skeleton has been found that is some 2000 years younger than the frieze.
If you're looking for a non-cave
detour, continue a little further up the heavily wooded Beune valley
from Cap Blanc, to the elegant sixteenth-century Château de Laussel (closed to the public). On the opposite side of the valley stand the romantic ruins of the
Château de Commarque
, now undergoing extensive restoration. Built in the thirteenth
century, it was occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War,
and substantial sections of the fortifications still stand. You can
reach it on foot via the GR6 footpath, which leaves the D47, past the
Font-de-Gaume or - much quicker - by a path that starts in the
justify-hand corner of the field below Cap Blanc (flooded in wet weather).
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