The gare SNCF is just over 1km south of the old town. The tourist office lodges in the sixteenth-century Hôtel de Maleville on place de la Liberté (May-June & Sept-Nov daily 9am-7pm; July & Aug daily 9am-7.30pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 05.53.31.45.45, fax 05.53.59.19.44,
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). For a small fee, they'll help find a room in town or B&B accommodation in the surrounding area, though it's almost impossible to find cheap digs in season. You can rent bicycles from Cycles Sarladais, 36 av Thiers, and Christian Chapoulie, 4 av de Selves; the latter also has scooters.
The nicest and most reasonable place to stay in Sarlat is the Hôtel des Récollets , 4 rue J.-J.-Rousseau (tel 05.53.31.36.00, fax 05.53.30.32.62,
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; €34-46), on the westside of the old town. If they're full, try the more basic Marcel at 50 av de Selves, the northern extension of rue de la République (tel 05.53.59.21.98; €34-46; closed mid-Nov to early Feb). At the other extreme, and closer to the old town, the Hôtel de la Madeleine , place de la Petite-Rigaudie (tel 05.53.59.10.41, fax 05.53.31.03.62,
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; €61-76), offers three-star comforts. There is a small hostel with dormitory accommodation at 77 av de Selves (tel 05.53.59.47.59; closed Jan), a ten-minute walk from the vieille ville . The nearest campsite , Les Périères , on Sarlat's northern outskirts (tel 05.53.59.05.84; closed Oct-Easter), is very well equipped but costs almost as much as a hotel; much better to try Les Terrasses du Périgord , about 2.5km north of Sarlat near Proissans village (tel 05.53.59.02.25; closed Oct-April).
Restaurants are generally overpriced in Sarlat. However, Chez Marc in rue Tourny (tel 05.53.59.02.71; closed Sun & Mon), south of the cathedral, with its menus at €8.38 and €12.96 and regional specialities, offers reasonable value for money, as does the slightly fancier Le Bouffon , behind the tourist office in rue Albéric-Cahuet, with a pretty courtyard (tel 05.53.31.03.36; closed Dec & Wed off season; menus from €11.89). Criquettamu's , 5 rue des Armes (tel 05.53.59.48.10; closed Mon & Nov-March; menus €12.20-27.44), is another safe bet, serving up foie gras, magret and morilles mushrooms, but for something a bit special try Le Présidial , rue Landry (tel 05.53.28.92.47; closed Mon & Dec-Jan; menus from €17.53), east of place de la Liberté in a lovely seventeenth-century mansion and its walled garden.
A very pleasant alternative to both staying and eating in Sarlat would be to put up in the little hilltop hamlet of
MARQUAY
about halfway to Les Eyzies, at the Hôtel des Bories (tel
05.53.29.67.02, fax 05.53.29.64.15; €24-34; closed Nov-March), with a
marvellous view, swimming pool and an excellent attached restaurant,
L'Esterel (closed Wed lunch; from €12.96); it is vital to book several
months in advance for July and August.
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