Rue Châtelaine, in the ville haute , has a good range of boulangeries and fromageries for assembling picnics. Simple snacks can be had at the Le Parvis , which overlooks the west front of the cathedral; at Crêperie Agora , an inexpensive Breton place near the cathedral at 16 rue des Cordeliers (open until 1am; closed Sat lunch & Mon); or at the Brasserie Chenizelles , at no. 1 on rue du Bourg, the continuation of rue Chatelaine. Restaurants in Laon tend to be expensive: La Petite Auberge , the gourmets' favourite, at 45 bd Pierre-Brossolette in the ville basse near the station, falls into this category, serving traditional French cuisine using the freshest ingredients (menus from €19.67). Next door, the Saint-Amour is more economical and still very good (menus from €11.43).

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There's usually something going on at the Maison des Arts on place Aubrey - including the annual ten-day international film festival in early April - and a concentration of events during the Heures Médiévales festival in the first week of May. Le Welcome , next door to the arts complex, is an Irish-style bar and is a good place for just a drink.

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