Three kilometres south of Villeneuve the tiny hilltop village of PUJOLS makes a popular excursion, partly to see the faded Romanesque frescoes in the church of Ste-Foy and partly for the views over the surrounding country. But the main reason locals come here is for the quality of its restaurants . Top of the list is the excellent but expensive La Toque Blanche (tel 05.53.49.00.30; closed Sun evening, Mon & Tues lunch; menus from €18.29-53.36), just south of Pujols with views back to the village. The views are even better, however, from their less formal outlet, Lou Calel , in Pujols itself, overlooking the Lot valley; for around €30.49 including wine you can sample some beautifully cooked traditional but light menus (tel 05.53.70.46.14; closed Tues evening & Wed).

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Another side trip could be to the beautiful but touristy old fortress town of PENNE D'AGENAIS , 8km upstream on a steep hill also on the south bank of the Lot, with remains of a thirteenth-century castle teetering on a cliff edge; without a car, you'll have to take the bus (Mon-Fri two daily; no service in Aug) from Villeneuve to St-Sylvestre on the north bank and walk across the bridge. There are great views from the top. The tourist office , in rue du 14-Juillet just inside the old town gate (June to mid-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm & 2/3-7pm, Sun 3-7pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; tel 05.53.41.37.80, fax 05.53.49.38.37), can supply comprehensive lists of B&Bs and gîtes in the area. There's a campsite in St-Sylvestre by the river (tel 05.53.41.22.23; closed Oct to mid-May) and a simple, modern hotel , Le Compostelle (tel 05.53.41.12.41, fax 05.53.41.00.20; €34-46; closed Jan & Feb; restaurant from €9.91), near the gare SNCF on the Agen-Paris line.

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