West of Cahors the vine-cloaked banks of the Lot are dotted with small and ancient villages. The first of these, Luzech and the dramatic Puy L'Évêque , are served by an SNCF bus that threads along the valley from Cahors via Fumel to Monsempron-Libos, on the Agen-Périgueux train line. You'll need your own transport, however, to reach the splendid Château de Bonaguil , in the hills northwest of Puy-L'Évêque, worth the effort for its elaborate fortifications and spectacular position. From here on the Lot valley starts to get ugly and industrial, though Villeneuve-sur-Lot hides a surprisingly attractive old centre and provides a base for exploring the villages around. Prettiest are Pujols , to the south, which also boasts a number of excellent restaurants, and Penne d'Agenais , overlooking the Lot to the east.
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