Exploring Valley of the Célé About Espagnac-Ste-Eulalie and Marcilhac
Travelling downstream from Figeac, two villages in particular are worth a stop. The first is ESPAGNAC-STE-EULALIE , about 18km west of Figeac. It's a tiny and beautiful hamlet reached across an old stone bridge on the south bank of the river, under the limestone outcrops of the causse . A gorgeous hatted lantern crowns the belfry of the church (guided visits: July & Aug daily 3-6pm; Sept daily 3pm; rest of year by appointment tel 05.65.40.10.63; donation expected), and under a weathered tower next door, an ancient gateway now houses a gîte d'étape (tel 05.65.40.05.24). There are two good riverside campsites in the next hamlet, BRENGUES : Le Moulin Vieux (tel 05.65.40.00.41; closed Oct-April), and the smaller municipal site (tel 05.65.40.06.82; closed Oct-May).
The second village of real interest is MARCILHAC , 9km downstream of Brengues, whose semi-ruinous abbey (April-June & Sept Wed-Sat 10am-noon & 2-5pm, Sun 2-5pm; July & Aug daily 10am-noon & 2-7pm; €2.29), with its gaping walls and broken columns, conjures a strongly romantic atmosphere. Very early and rather primitive ninth-century Carolingian sculpture decorates the lintel, and there are some handsome Romanesque capitals in the chapterhouse. In the damp interior are frescoes from around 1500 and old coats of arms of the local nobility, for Marcilhac was once mightily powerful, having even Rocamadour under its sway. During World War II, it was the scene of the one of the maquis 's first theatrical gestures of turning the tables on the occupier: on November 11, 1943 - Armistice Day - Jean-Jacques Chapou's group briefly occupied the village and laid a wreath at the war memorial.
It's worth timing your visit to eat at the attractive Café des Touristes on the main street (tel 05.65.40.65.61; Easter-Oct lunch & dinner, rest of year lunch only), where you'll feast on hearty home-cooking for around €15.24. There's a gîte d'étape in the abbey (apply to the Café des Touristes ; closed Nov-Easter), as well as a municipal campsite just outside the village (tel 05.65.40.77.88; closed Oct-April).
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