f you are just looking for a quick meal , you'll find numerous brasseries and cafés on place du Mandarous. For something more traditional, try the Auberge Occitane , at 15 rue Peyrollerie (menus from €10.67), which serves excellent aligot and other local specialities, or the more upmarket La Braconne , on place Foch (tel 05.65.60.30.93; closed Sun evening & Mon; from €14.94), offering high-calory fare such as stuffed goose and pork with juniper berries. Alternatively, head for boulevard de la Capelle on the northeast side of the old town, where two good establishments spread their tables under the trees: La Mangeoire , at no. 8 (from €11.70), which serves grilled fish, meat and game dishes; and next door, La Marmite du Pêcheur , featuring menus from €10.35, including the local potato and cheese dish, aligot . A popular place for a drink is La Locomotive , at 33 av Gambetta (till 2am), which has live music evenings in summer.

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