North from Douch, the D180 climbs 12km above deep ravines, offering spectacular views to the summit of L'Espinouse
. The Col de l'Ourtigas is a good place to stretch your legs and take
in the grandeur surrounding you. Here the landscape changes from
Mediterranean cragginess to marshy moor-like meadow and big conifer
plantations, and the road begins to descend west into the valley of the
River Agout. It runs through tiny Salvergues, with plain workers'
cottages and a striking fortress-church; Cambon, where the natural
woods begin; postcard-pretty FRAISSE-SUR-AGOUT - home to the Campotel (tel 04.67.69.64.29; €24-34) on the riverbank, and the small
Auberge de l'Espinouse (tel 04.67.97.56.14; €34-46; closed Nov-Feb); and thence to LA SALVETAT-SUR-AGOUT
. Situated between the artificial lakes of La Raviège and Laouzas, this
is another attractive mountain town built on a hill above the river,
with car-wide streets and houses clad in huge slate tiles. It's usually
half asleep except at holiday time, when it becomes a busy outdoor
activities centre. With several campsites and the friendly, English-owned
La Pergola hotel (tel 04.67.97.60.57, fax 04.67.97.56.76; under €24), it's a convenient stopover for the centre of the park. The municipal campsite (tel 04.67.97.62.45; closed Sept-April) is by the sports ground off the D907, and there's a tourist office
in place des Archers at the top of the hill (July & Aug Mon-Fri
9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-noon & 2-5pm; rest of year
closed Sun; tel & fax 04.67.97.64.44).
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