28km from Nîmes, the little medieval town of SOMMIÈRES , with a much-modified Roman bridge, is where Lawrence Durrell spent the last years of his life. The town itself boasts no major sights, though it's well preserved and atmospheric. However, a visit to the castle of Vieilleville (April-Nov afternoons; rest of year 2pm-dusk; €4.50), on the hillside 3km above Sommières, should not be missed. Owned by the same family for nearly eight hundred years, the castle is full of exquisite antique furniture.

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There are daily buses to Sommières from Nîmes, while accommodation is available at Le Commerce , 15 quai Gaussorgues (tel 04.66.80.97.22, fax 04.66.80.32.64; €24-34), a pleasant, inexpensive hotel with a restaurant, and the fancier Auberge du Port Romain , 2 av Émile-Jamais (tel 04.66.80.00.58, fax 04.66.80.31.52; €46-61; closed mid-Jan to mid-March & mid-Nov to mid-Dec), set in a renovated wine château. There's also a municipal campsite on rue Eugène-Rouch.

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