Exploring Cathar Castles About Château de Quéribus
The Château de Quéribus (Feb, March, Nov
& Dec Sat, Sun & hols 10am-5pm; April & Oct daily 10am-6pm;
May, June & Sept daily 10am-7pm; July & Aug daily 10am-7pm;
€3.81), 30km further east towards Perpignan, stands on the ridge above
the vine-ringed village of Cucugnan , a few
kilometres north of the main Quillan-Perpignan road - with a good
chance of a lift up to the castle. Again, it is spectacularly situated,
balanced on a pillar of rock above a sheer cliff, whose crevices
nourish a variety of beautiful wild flowers. Until 1659 this was the
border with Spain.
Because of the extreme, cramped topography of the
rock, the space within the walls is stepped in terraces, dominated by
the polygonal keep and accessible by a single stairway. Inside, at the
heart of the keep, is the remarkable chapel of St-Louis-de-Quéribus,
surprisingly high and wide when you consider the keep's tortured
position, and supported by a single pillar. The stairs to the roof are
broken, but from the window halfway up there are fantastic views to
Canigou and Perpignan, with other castles and watchtowers of the
Spanish Marches dotting the peaks and ridges. To the northwest you're
within easy eyeshot of Peyrepertuse.
The
history of Quéribus is similar to that of Puilaurens, though the
fortifications visible today are thirteenth century. It was the last
stronghold of Cathar resistance, holding out until 1255, eleven years
beyond the fall of Montségur. Never reduced by siege, its role as a
sanctuary for the Cathars ended with the capture of the luckless
Chabert.
Entry to Quéribus also includes the Théâtre Achille Mir (same hours) in the small village of CUCUGNAN
, in the valley to the north of the château. Through an imaginative
slide-show the theatre retells the story of the Curé de Cucugnan, hero
of Alphonse Daudet's book Lettres de Mon Moulin ; locals
claim he's based on their own nineteenth-century abbot Ruffié. The
village also has a rare statue of a pregnant Virgin Mary in its pretty
little church. There's accommodation at the Auberge du Vigneron , opposite the theatre (tel 04.68.45.40.84, fax 04.68.45.01.52; €34-46; closed mid-Feb to mid-March), while the Auberge de Cucugnan (tel 04.68.45.03.00, fax 04.68.45.01.52; €34-46; closed Feb), near the church, has a restaurant known for its hearty servings of game (from €15.25 including wine). The nearest other rooms are in DUILHAC , about 4km away below Peyrepertuse , at the Auberge du Vieux Moulin (tel 04.68.45.02.17, fax 04.68.45.02.18; €34-46; closed late Dec to early Feb; restaurant from €8.39-21.35). There is also an alimentation in the village, selling bread, open even on Sunday morning.
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