The tourist office distributes a guide to all the town's eminent houses, taking in the former Jewish ghetto on rue des Litanies and rue Juiverie, but you can just as easily follow the explanatory plaques posted all over the centre, starting at the east end of rue François-Outrin where it leaves the town's main square, place du 14-Juillet. The gare routière is on the opposite side of the square on the river bank, with buses to Montpellier, Béziers and Agde, while an enormous market takes place each Saturday on cours Jean-Jaurès, a five-minute walk away.

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There are two hotels in Pézenas: Genieys , at 9 rue Aristide-Briand (tel 04.67.98.13.99, fax 04.67.98.04.80; €24-34), and the splendid Molière , on place du 14-Juillet (tel 04.67.98.14.00, fax 04.67.98.98.28; €34-46). There are plenty of restaurants to choose from and all have menus for under €15.25. Le Pomme d'Amour (closed Jan & Feb), on rue Albert-Paul-Alliés, and Brasserie Molière (in the hotel of the same name) are good terroir restaurants, while Le Conti , 27 rue Conti (closed Sun), is a popular pizzeria. For those with a sweet tooth, there are two local delicacies to sample: flavoured sugar-drops called berlingots , and petits pâtés - bobbin-shaped pastries related to mince pies, reputedly introduced by the Indian cook in the household of Clive of India who stayed in Pézenas in 1770.

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