From the gare SNCF on boulevard Verdun, the best way into town is through the landscaped gardens of the Plateau des Poètes opposite the station entrance and up the allées Paul-Riquet. The gare routière is in place de Gaulle, at the northern end of the allées , while the tourist office is off the allées at 5 place Jean-Jaurès (July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 10am-noon; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6.30pm; tel 04.67.28.05.97, www.ville-beziers.fr ).

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For a central place to stay , try the welcoming Angleterre , at 22 place Jean-Jaurès (tel 04.67.28.48.42; €24-34), or the Hôtel des Poètes , 80 allées Paul-Riquet (tel 04.67.76.38.66, fax 04.67.76.25.88; €34-46), at the south end overlooking the gardens. The Hôtel du Théâtre , at 13 rue Coquille (tel 04.67.49.13.43, fax 04.67.49.31.58; €34-46), right beside the theatre, is smarter, while the town's deluxe option is Hôtel Imperator (tel 04.67.49.02.25, fax 04.67.28.92.30; €46-61) at 28 allées Paul-Riquet. There's no campsite in town, but you'll find one at nearby Villeneuve-lez-Béziers (tel 04.67.39.36.09; closed Nov-Feb).    

For food , check out Pizzeria da Patti (from around €7.63), on the north side of place Jean-Jaurès, or head up into the old quarter where rue Viennet has a good choice of restaurants. Two specific places to try here are the elegant Le Cep d'Or , at no. 7, serving mostly seafood (closed Sun evening & Mon; menus from €11.90), and the La Table Bretonne , at no. 21 (closed Mon), a homely crêperie in the shadow of the cathedral, where you can eat well for around €9.15. L'Ambassade , at 22 bd de Verdun (tel 04.67.76.06.24; closed Sun & Mon; menus from €22.11), is one of the town's best places, while Le Bistrot des Halles , further north on place de la Madeleine behind the market square, is popular for its varied, well-priced menus (closed Sun & Mon; from €13.73).

Béziers has one of the star rugby clubs in France, A.S.B.H., based at the Stade de la Méditerranée in the eastern suburbs (tel 04.67.11.03.76). If you fancy pottering along the Canal du Midi, you can hire bikes at La Maison du Canal (tel 04.67.62.18.18) beside the Port Neuf, south of the gare SNCF .

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