The country between Albi and Carmaux, 16km to the north, has long been a coal-mining and industrial area, associated in particular with the political activity of Jean Jaurès, father figure of French socialism. Elected deputy for Albi in 1893, after defending the striking miners of Carmaux, he then championed the glassworkers in 1896 in a strike that led to the setting up of a pioneering workers' co-operative, La Verrerie Ouvrière, which still functions today. The tourist office in Albi can provide a list of interesting industrial sites in the area, including the pit at CAGNAC-LES-MINES , where visits include a fascinating trip into a reconstructed mine (Mon-Sat 10.30am, 11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm, Sun afternoon on the hour 3-5pm; €4.88).

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Of more conventional tourist interest is the town of CORDES , perched on a conical hill 24km northwest of Albi, from which it's a brief trip by train (as far as Cordes-Vindrac, 5km away, with bike rental from the station) or bus (daily except Sun), or an easy hitch. Founded in 1222 by Raymond VII, Count of Toulouse, Cordes was a Cathar stronghold, and the ground beneath the town is riddled with tunnels for storage and refuge in time of trouble. As one of the southwest's oldest and best-preserved bastides , complete with thirteenth- and fourteenth-century houses climbing steep cobbled lanes, Cordes is inevitably a major tourist attraction: medieval banners flutter in the streets and artisans practise their crafts - unfortunately, the kiss of death. The Musée Charles-Portal (July & Aug daily 11am-noon & 3-6pm; rest of year Sun & hols 3-6pm; €2.29) depicts the history of the town. Lovers of the bizarre should take a look at the Musée de l'Art du Sucre (Feb-Dec daily 10am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm; €2.29), containing outrageous sugar-sculptures created by famous local pâtissier , Yves Thuriès, and his underlings. The nicest hotel in town is the Grand Écuyer (tel 05.63.53.79.50, This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it ; €61-76; closed Oct-Easter) in the former palace of Cordes' founder Raymond of Toulouse. Across from the Charles-Porte museum, Hôtel de la Cité , is a lower-priced alternative (tel 05.63.56.03.53, fax 05.63.56.02.47; €34-46; closed Nov to mid-April), housed in a medieval building. There's also a campsite (tel & fax 05.63.56.11.10; closed Oct-March) 1km southeast down the Gaillac road.

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