Languedoc is more an idea than a geographical entity. The modern
région covers only a fraction of the lands where Occitan or the langue d'oc
- the language of oc , the southern Gallo-Latin word for oui - once
dominated. These stretched south from Bordeaux and Lyon into Spain and
northwest Italy.
The heartland today is the Bas Languedoc - the
coastal plain and dry, stony, vine-growing hills between Carcassonne
and Nîmes. It is here that the Occitan movement has its power base,
demanding recognition of its linguistic and cultural distinctiveness. A
good part of its appeal derives from resentment of political domination
by remote and alien Paris, aggravated by the area's traditional
poverty. In recent times this has been focused on Parisian
determination to drag the province into the twentieth century, with
massive tourist development on the coast and the drastic transformation
of the cheap wine industry. But it is also mixed up in a vague
collective folk memory with the brutal repression of the Protestant
Huguenots around 1700, the thirteenth-century massacres of the Cathars
and the subsequent obliteration of the brilliant langue d'oc troubadour
tradition. It is a hostility that has made an essentially rural and
conservative population vote - paradoxically - for the Left. Although a
sense of Occitan identity remains strong in the region, it has very
little currency as a spok en or literary language, despite the
popularity of university-level language courses and the foundation of
Occitan-speaking elementary schools.
Toulouse , the cultural capital,
though included in this section of the website, lies outside the modern
région but is a deserved high spot among numerous and various other
attractions. There are great stretches of dramatic landscape and river
gorges, from the Cévennes foothills in the east to the Montagne Noire and Corbières hills in the west. There's superb ecclesiastical architecture in Albi and St-Guilhem-le-Désert , medieval towns at Cordes and Carcassonne , and the unforgettably romantic Cathar castles to the south. Nîmes has extensive Roman remains, and there are great swathes of beach where - away from the major resorts - you can still find a kilometre or two to yourself.
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